Surprisingly, there are little articles on the Web
regarding miniature transport. It's hard to understand since this
question arise nearly as soon as a player wants to meet another fellow for
his first battle. Getting miniatures from point A to point B seems a
problem as old as painted miniatures themselves, but thankfully in the
21st century, technology can come to our help! Through my experience of
wargaming, I think I've seen almost everything. It ranged from the
custom-designed wood cabinet handling a complete army, where each gaming
piece was inserted in beveled laths to handle firmly its stand, to (let's
say) less formal players cramming all their miniatures in a trash bag
along with their dice and even their books. Really! And of course
between those extremes there was a wide population of gamers struggling
with cardboard boxes, foam squares taken from blisters, self-adhesive tape
and segments of kitchen rolls. A one-size-fits-all solution is hard to
believe, with so many constraints: weight, resilience of the container,
cost, compatibility with complex miniatures (tanks, mounted dragons
drowning under wings and banners), and ease of packing for the whole. Yet,
among the crowd of wargamers, two schools seemed to emerge regarding
miniature transportation. The Foam
SchoolSome people abide by foam cases. Different models came to
existence over the course of years, but always based on the same logic:
handling a miniature in a frame of foam, ensuring a gentle immobility
through transportation. Earlier versions were just pressing two layers of
foam together when the case was closed along with the models laid in
between, but it proved impractical for larger miniatures and potentially
damaging for their frail features (banners, spikes, etc.) Later models
involved foam trays with a dedicated emplacement for each miniature, like
those proposed by Sabol Designs,
Figures in Comfort or
Charon Productions. Of course,
Games Workshop itself tried to enter this
juicy market, but their
carrying
cases can't compare to what other companies already offer. More than a
foam tray with an array of hollowed boxes, it became possible to get
customizable foam trays, where each player could carve holes as needed,
creating emplacements for any miniature regardless of its size and
shape.  | Top-of-the-range product. | Once
carefully laid in their foam coffin, miniatures are safe from nearly any
damage. If the emplacement is appropriately sized, a model won't be able
to move at all. Hard cases offer unmatched storage protection, perfect if
you can't control your luggage during the whole trip, like when taking a
plane and leaving your army in the baggage compartment.So, is the Foam
School the best one? Many believe so, but they overlook the drawbacks of
this approach. This means of transport is quite expensive, as one can
expect from a niche marked dedicated to wargame players. Each foam tray
has to be carefully cut and prepared to accomodate the miniatures it is
supposed to carry, allowing only a limited flexibility. If you change your
army list often or play many different games, this can quickly become
problematic unless you store dozen of alternate foam layouts for all
possibilities. Putting miniatures in their proper location takes time too,
as they have to be placed accordingly to their shape and sometimes in the
right order (when foam trays are placed on top of each other.) Remembering
the adequate distribution of a large army can be hellish - try with the
hundreds of miniatures from any single Warhammer Fantasy
army!  | Some work ahead! | Finally,
even if foam is a soft matter, its contact can still damage miniatures on
the long run, especially on frail features. Banner poles, antennaes and
long pikes don't mix well with foam trays.For the reasons above, I was
never convinced by the foam tray approach. I've seen it numerous times
and admit it has merits, but I don't like the idea of having to place
miniatures individually in a carrying case once and for all. Many people
leave their armies in the carrying case for days between games. Yet, I
find my miniatures beautiful and I want to display them in showcases when
I don't play, which means that I don't plan to store them for longer
than a single trip. I found the foam tray solution costly and bulky, and
even unnessary since I am not moving over large distances. That's why I
tried the other school. The Magnetic SchoolI belong to the
magnetic school, as you may have already guessed from other articles on
this website. The name sounds a lot
better!  | - Have you seen something,
Warren? - Nothing, Frank. We are alone, for sure. | The
Magnetic School implies more preparation work than foam trays, but it's
not the kind of challenge that should frighten a do-it-yourself
enthusiast, is it? I consists of putting magnets or magnetic plastic under
each model's base, and after than to place them on a metallic surface.
Nothing more!Since miniatures stand on their base vertically, the paint
job isn't in contact with anything. Banners and accessories aren't
broken or twisted by any foam structure around. The versatiliy of the
magnet means you can arrange your miniatures the way you want - you can
even align them in units like they are deployed on the battlefield.
Getting them out of the box or putting them back is done in
seconds. What are the drawbacks? Some people are afraid that miniatures
stored through magnetic power are not hold as firmly as those laying in a
foam tray, fearing the "miniature bowling" where models have fallen and,
being able to move freely, collide with every other miniature in the
container. If it can happen, it's because the magnets used are not
powerful enough; we'll see how easily this issue can be avoided. And once
this part of the job is well done, a stored miniature won't move at all -
even less than those lying in a foam tray case. As long as you don't plan
to play football with your packed miniatures it will be okay. Apart from
that, there's no real problem with the magnetic school. It implies some
work (every miniature must receive its own magnet) but so does the foam
tray approach, where appropriate emplacements must sometimes be carved
individually. One should look for an appropriate container, too: I've
bought the cheapest metallic toolbox available. It's not as nice-looking
as a dedicated Sabol Designs carrying case, but so much cheaper! When a
gamer starts involving himself in magnets, there's no limit to what can
be done. I know for example someone using layers of magnetic and metallic
sheets to have each miniature holding in a magnetized movement tray,
itself being able to handle firmly in a transport case! This way, nothing
moves and all the regiment can be stored or deployed in
seconds. Getting proper material and using itGetting the
right material is half the job. The picture below shows several
alternatives for miniature bases: pre-cut magnetic plastic, magnetic
plastic, or Rare Earth magnets. Each one as its own use but you won't
need everything.  | Various material for
adding magnetic power to miniature
bases. |
 | The simpliest
method is certainly to purchase a sheet of magnetic plastic (available in
craft stores too) and to cut the shapes from there before gluing them
under your bases. If you are playing Warhammer or any rank-and-file
wargame, cutting squares and rectanbles will be simple; but for games
using round bases like Warhammer 40'000, you will need a Compass Cutter
Tool, a compass-mounted blade (available in craft stores too.) This
approach has the merit of flexibility: no matter the size and surface of
the stand you plan to glue your magnetic plastic under, you will be able
to cut the proper shape. I used this technique for years and still do when
shapes are appropriate, like Epic stands. Yet, when I started playing
Warhammer 40'000, cutting dozens of circles for mundane troops has been
quite annoying.For plastic miniatures with standard base sizes (mostly
round ones but in fact in any shape) I have found better since then:
supplies from Liktoaero. This company based on
laser-cut technology sells a wide array of wooden pieces along with
flexible steel and flexible magnet sheets. Only the latter is of interest
for us - although you may purchase flexible steel if you want to carry
your magnetized miniatures in a plastic container so they have something
to be attracted to. Magnetic plastic is sold pre-cut and with a peel-off
adhesive face. Adding magnetic power to bases has never been so easy.
Since Litkoaero covers the gaming needs of so many customers, here are
several references for base sizes. Quantities vary in increments (10, 25,
50 or 100) with rebate on bulk. They provide two different qualities,
normal and "heavy duty", but I never bought the latter (you'll
understand why a bit further in this article.) See their
online
store for details. (Please note that stephane.info is not affiliated in
any way to Litkoaero company; it's just that I found that their products
are a must have for miniature
transport!) Warhammer:
GMB033: Square Miniature Bases,
20mm side (small infantry) GMB041: Square Miniature Bases, 25mm
side (large infantry) GMB085: Rectangular Miniature Bases, 50mm
x 25mm (cavalry) GMB061: Square Miniature Bases, 40mm side
(ogre, trolls, etc.) GMB089: Square Miniature Bases, 50mm side
(large monsters)Warhammer 40'000:
GMB017: Circular
Miniature Bases, 25mm diameter (regular infantry) GMB249:
Circular Miniature Bases, 40mm diameter (terminator,
swarms) GMB245: Circular Miniature Bases, 60mm diameter
(dreadnought)Warmachine:
GMB321: Circular Miniature
Bases, 30mm diameter (regular infantry) GMB249: Circular
Miniature Bases, 40mm diameter (large infantry, light warjacks, small
warbeasts) GMB325: Circular Miniature Bases, 50mm diameter
(heavy warjacks, warbeasts)Phew! With that, you should be happy for
some time. Yet, we still haven't covered the problem of large and heavy
miniatures... No matter the transport method used, mundane soldiers
rarely cause any problem. Large miniatures do. They usually combine frail
features (banners poles, wings) along with a high center of gravity and a
good weight: the worst of everything. Yet, it's still possible to to base
them with enough magnetic power so that they won't move at all.
And I really mean it. To this end, I use Rare Earth Magnets sold by
ForcefieldMagnets (it's not the sole
retailer on the market for this kind of stuff, but rather cheap.) They
have Neodynium magnet of impressive attracting power, ideal for
magnetization of large monsters, tanks and so on. Take the picture above,
for example, where a Warmachine warjack is hold upside down above two
Eldar guardians: the warjack stand features a
single
magnet! Don't get fooled by the picture tough: the bond is not as
strong as it looks, but sufficient. Should I had felt it wasn't enough, I
would just have added another one somewhere under the stand as there's
plenty of space remaining. Do as you please but don't go too far as you
will end with a miniature breaking off from a stand too strongly attracted
to your toolbox. I'm not joking. Of course, nothing prevents you from
using neodynium magnets everywhere instead of magnetic plastic. It might
be interesting because the latter can't compare to the power of the
formers. This approach is just more expensive and require each magnet to
be glued individually to its stand with a strong bond, like two-part
epoxy, and carefully aligned with the lower part of a miniature base.
It's efficient but a royal pain to do on dozens of miniatures. For most
models, either small and lightweight or just made of plastic, I found this
solution
unnecessary. Magnets
have an unmatched flexibility. They are even usable on flying stands!
It's hard to believe since those special stands are made of clear
plastic, but there's still something to be done. For my Eldar army, I
inserted small and powerful magnets at the center of the round base. It
worked fine on Jetbikes and Vypers and even on Falcons! It's because
those plastic miniatures are not weighting that much. To see how the
magnet is located, see an example in step
3 of my Black Unicorn articles: a small golden magnet can be seen from
the low angle view of the flying stand. The bond is not strong enough to
allow the miniature to hold upside down, but nonetheless it proved enough.
Had I carved a larger hole, I would have been able to insert a stronger
magnet there.For me,
miniature transport is not a problem anymore! created on 23 Mar 2006 |